Framing your deck will allow you to build a solid base for your deck. Assembling the frame on the beams is the next step when installing your deck. For this project you will need joists, a tape measure, pencil, a square, drill with bits, nails and screws, a hammer, joist hangers, corner brackets, hurricane ties and a saw.
To begin we will lay and measure the rim joists in conjunction with building codes, which will help support the floor joists. First cut the joists to size. When cutting treated lumber, be sure to apply a sealer to the edges. Cut 3 pilot holes in the ends of the rim. Resting on the beams, hold the rim joist against an end floor joist and attach them with screws through the pilot holes. Do the same thing on the other ends. Attach reinforcing brackets with nails. Position the frame at its final location making sure everything is square, and attach hurricane ties, which are brackets to hold the frame in place. The frame is locked, so we can install the rest of the joists. Joist hangers will help support the planks. Position the hanger against one side of the plank by tapping in the speed prong. Repeat on the other side. Next nail in the joist hanger with joist hanger nails.
Finish installing the joists and hangers for each side. Place the other rim joists on top of the floor joists against the beams. Line up the joists with the marks then secure the ties in place. Add ties across every row of beams. With the frame secured to the beams, attach the other rim joist just as you did the first. Drive nails into the end of the joists. Now that the frame is finished you can start your decking.
Starting near the yard and working toward the house place the straightest board you have and line it up with the joists. Drill 2 pilot holes in to the end of the boards to prevent splitting. Next drive 2 screws into every plank to the joists. Apply the next board, setting a nail between the boards to allow space for draining. Continue to position and check for square every few boards. As you get closer to the house, you can adjust spacing to allow the last board to fit, or you can cut to fit. Once the boards are all in place snap a line on the end joists and cut the ends to make sure they are all even. As your deck begins to come together, you will need to be able to access the deck with stairs, which will be the next step.
Watch part 5 of Lowe’s How to Build a Deck series at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fofRKT1hTEc
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Disclaimer: This is my first time trying to mig weld. I am an FAA licensed mechanic so we had to know how to weld the old aircraft’s airframes composed of chrome molly 4130 tubing 4/3 and 1 inch ID. We had to measure out the pattern for cutting the cluster (four tubes) joined together tightly and then Oxy Acetylene weld the cluster, then the inspector would place your test joint in a big vise and pound it with a heavy hammer to see where the joint breaks, it should not have broken in the weld area:
I sold this machine, so was doing some testing for the feller who was purchasing it.
This is a 120 volt machine and is not rated for up to 1/4 steel in one pass. If you need to weld that thick, first V out the 1/4 plate. Here I am trying to weld 1/4 in thick plate steel using .030 mild steel wire and 22 CFH 75% argon 25 % Co2 gas mix. You have to stay close to the metal and keep a steady speed. I am using the hottest ‘E’ setting and 5 FPS wire feed. This is not recommended, it is something I just tried.
I beveled both sides of the 1/4 inch plate and wire brushed the metal first. I am using a 12 AWG extension cord on a 20 amp breaker and welding this hot does trip the breaker, a lower setting is alright on a 20 amp.However the machine does not cut out like some others may do.