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  • Clamping and welding cycle of an ELENA 800-II longitudinal seam welder when TIG welding stainless steel tubes.
    After swivelling the centre stop in position the un-welded tube is pushed towards the axial part stop, the rear edge is pressed against the centre stop and clamped. Following the front edge is pre-clamped. The centre stop swivels out and the front edge fully clamped. The welding cycle starts.
    Perfect welding on a stainless steel tube with close edge start and end, continuous weld width and no discolouration on the inside and outside of the tube.

    Material: 1.4301 (DIN), 304 (ASTM) Austenitic Stainless Steel
    Thickness: 0.6 mm (0.0236 ″)
    Seam length: 200 mm (7.874 ″)
    Welding Speed: 250 cm/min (98.4 inch per minute)
    Welding Process: TIG

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    When we talk about 6G pipe welding, we are talking about welding two pieces of pipe (of any size or material) together in a fixed 45 degree angle. Being able to weld in the 6G position will qualify you to weld in any other position. It will not, however qualify you to weld any material in that position. In this video, we are going to show you how to weld 6 inch Carbon Steel Pipe in the 6G position to help you pass a test or get a job.

    Viewer Question:
    I have a question: When I am TIG welding roots, on a 6″ sch 40, sometimes i stop the lay wire process and keyhole, and sometimes it gets really big, do u know why this happens?

    If the wire is not in the leading edge of the pool acting as a “sink,” then the root filler metal can fall to the inside if you keep the welding amperage the same. This can lead to undesirable build up, aka, “bumps” or “grapes”, and can cause the root pass reinforcement to exceed allowable limits. This will usually happen in the vertical and top sections of a 5G or 6G weld. The very bottom section (overhead) of a 5G or 6G weld usually just lays flat or sucks back to a concave profile.

    If you are welding with remote amperage; simply reduce the amperage when the wire leaves the pool, re-position wire to the leading edge of the weld, and increase the amperage to the desirable range and continue welding.

    If you are not using remote amperage controls; move the arc up on the bevel and increase arc length to reduce amperage, and re-position the filler wire to the leading edge of the pool before continuing.

    I have witnessed many welds made with the keyhole or drip type transfer of filler metal that were successful. I have used this technique on stainless and nickel based alloys with the desired results. However, I find it to be much slower, especially on carbon steel.
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